![]() 06/26/2016 at 21:45 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
(EDIT: Added more clues, Scooby Doo.)
A/C went out the other day, so i checked fuses and relays today (no problems there), then checked out the condenser compressor clutch... holy shit, its broken!
I have no idea how this happened. I dont even know how to begin repairs.
Up until last weekend, it was working... not great, but at least working.
System has plenty of charge (tried that first).
I can get about quarter-turn either direction on the compressor shaft before it starts offering resistance, and then I can’t turn it
by hand
any further (haven’t tried a wrench yet). I’m not sure if that’s a sign that it still has compression, or that it’s seized.
UPDATE: As it turns out, this particular model of AC compressor does not have an electronic clutch, but a mechanical one built into the compressor body. To that end, the compressor has a “feature” wherein the hub shears off pulley in the event that the compressor is seized. That breakage on my compressor hub is by design, apparently.
Oh, balls.
![]() 06/26/2016 at 21:49 |
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I’d guess you probably need to replace the compressor.
![]() 06/26/2016 at 21:50 |
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Torque. Torque happend. Gonna need a stage 4 clutch for that compressor.
![]() 06/26/2016 at 22:18 |
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Don’t worry; at least it will be expensive.
![]() 06/26/2016 at 22:27 |
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If the compressor still turns, just replace the clutch. If not, new compressor time.
![]() 06/26/2016 at 23:30 |
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Compressor clutch :)
Considering if theres enough room you could order a new clutch disc and replace it yourself. I never seen a clutch break like that. Usually the friction material wears away or clutch coil burns up. The A/C worked fine before?
![]() 06/27/2016 at 02:20 |
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Compressor seized but the belt kept tugging on the pulley and clutch. Compressor requires replacement. If you intend to do the repairs yourself, at least take it to a shop to have the system discharged before disassembly and recharged after assembly. Used compressors are often significantly cheaper than new/reman but can be a gamble. I also recommend replacing the receiver/drier and expansion valve or orifice tube depending on what your vehicle is equipped with. Best practice (read most expensive) is to also replace rubber lines, condenser, and evaporator. However, that is rarely necessary and I don’t suggest going down that route unless you have issues with a cheaper repair first.
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:55 |
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Thank you for all that, I appreciate the info!
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:56 |
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Up until last weekend, it was working... not great, but at least working.
System has plenty of charge (tried that first).
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:58 |
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I can get about quarter-turn either direction on the compressor shaft before it starts offering resistance, and then I can’t turn it by hand any further. I’m not sure if that’s a sign that it still has compression, or that it’s seized.
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:58 |
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*SIGH*
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:59 |
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VVT must’ve kicked in, yo.
![]() 06/27/2016 at 09:59 |
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I’d like to avoid that (very expen$ive) eventuality if possible.
![]() 06/27/2016 at 10:35 |
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Worst case would be the compressor internals are seizing up and broke the clutch. Try turning the center bolt with a wrench, if you feel it seize up it would be a bad compressor too.
![]() 06/27/2016 at 12:21 |
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Quarter turn by hand means it isn’t seized. It might still be demolished internally, but not seized. If it’s a scroll compressor it could still have some movement even if scroll is destroyed.
This isthe compressor from my 4 runner that seized. I can hit the pistons with a hammer and they don’t move.